We continue our Q&A series with our Tokyo design team, this time we talk with Kana Shirai, a Yaccomaricard designer for 12 years. Here Kana introduces our new Autumn/Winter 24 collection and the ideas behind it.
Please tell us about the AW'24 collection.
The theme of the collection is Kacho Fugetsu which translates into English as flower, bird, wind and moon.
At the heart of the theme is the appreciation of the four seasons and an expression of gratitude for nature. This concept is deeply rooted in Japanese culture. This is another collection in which we are enjoying Japan again, where tradition, innovation, and nature are fused in a beautiful balance.
We've infused the essence of Japan into the designs, incorporating a minimalist aesthetic with a touch of handcrafted elements.
What inspired the collection?
This collection was inspired by various iconic elements of Japan such as castles, fusuma paintings, ceiling lattices, checkerboard gardens in Kyoto, autumn leaves, snow-capped scenery, and sunrises. We drew inspiration from motifs that symbolise the changing expressions of Japan throughout the four seasons.
What is new about this collection?
Our design team is always striving to introduce new initiatives. However, dedicating the Spring/Summer season to the theme of Japonisme itself was a significant endeavour for us. Designing from an outsider's perspective of Japan proved to be a challenging theme.
This time we aim to refresh and modernise Japanese culture through the lens of Yaccomaricard. I hope you appreciate how we've reimagined these cultural elements in a contemporary light in the A/W collection.
Can you tell us about your favourite style from the AW'24 collection and why you chose it?
In the AW'24 collection, we focus a lot on coordinating outfits, so I selected a favourite set-up style. While I typically design more casual pieces, this time, with the Matsu series, we've achieved designs that are slightly more formal and suitable for special occasions.
The Matsu series features a shawl collar coat, a top and trousers, all made from lawn and cotton silk. The coat is a highlight and features embroidered pine trees based on my original drawings, much like a traditional Japanese sliding door painting. I aimed to capture Japan's strong and beautiful essence through the combination of sharp pintucks, embroidery and the drape of cotton silk in a shawl collar coat.
The Matsu series 1121636／1023874／1032228
Another group that we end the season with is the Hinode series, again a set of co-ords where I used a labour-intensive technique. This series involves layering cut-and-sewn pieces over lawn fabric, stitching them together, and then cutting between the stitches. This method creates a unique texture and visual effect. When worn as a set, the top and bottom pieces make a striking visual from the plain neckline to the bottom hem, evoking the imagery of clouds stretching across the sky.
The Hinode series 1070514／1510887／1530067
Please tell us your design background; what and where did you study? Why do you think fashion design appealed to you?
I studied at Sugino Fashion College in Tokyo, where I pursued a course in Mode Creation focusing on haute couture. During the first two years, I learned the basics of sewing. In the following two years, I specialised in detailed handwork, such as lace, intricate details, pleats, and beadwork.
I then continued my studies by enrolling on the Fashion Design Specialist Course for an additional year, where I focused on ready-to-wear design.
In 2012, I joined Yaccomaricard, where I have been working ever since.
For me, the appeal of design lies in its impact. Design can bring a sense of excitement and uniqueness to people's lives, and over time, this builds into individuality. The thought that my designs might become a small part of someone's life is fascinating and incredibly appealing.
Which part of your job brings you the most pleasure?
It's pretty simple, seeing someone wearing Yaccomaricard clothes. That's why I continue doing this job; it makes me happy. Additionally, I am responsible for developing fabrics, accessories, and dye colours in Thailand. When these efforts succeed, and the team is pleased, it brings me great satisfaction.
What do you value most when creating your designs?
When designing, I always make it a point to go about my day as usual. For me, maintaining my routine is the most important aspect because only when I am grounded in my everyday life can I conceive designs that bring a sense of specialness to other people's lives.
Can you tell us about your design process?
My design process starts with imagining new details. At this stage, I don't worry about whether something is realistic or feasible. I gather photos, sketch repeatedly, and find a playlist that matches the season's theme. I listen to the same playlist throughout the design process, as it helps me get into the right mindset. After conceptualising the techniques, there's a long journey ahead to realise those ideas.
Do you have a favourite part of the process?
The most exciting part is thinking about new techniques and designs. I love our meetings where we bring together new ideas. It's fascinating and inspiring to peek into the minds of more experienced designers, and it fills me with admiration and respect.
Looking back on your career, what has been your most memorable moment?
I will never forget the joy of seeing my idea become a real piece of clothing for the first time.
What are your plans and aspirations?
I hope that many people will appreciate our fascinating worldview and beautiful pintucks in the future. Therefore, I would like to see new good things, get to know them, and bring more beautiful items to our customers.
How do you think design affects people's lives and behaviour?
I believe that design has the power to uplift and make people's lives a bit more special. Sometimes, people feel tired, overwhelmed, or too depressed to move forward. During such moments, design is a way to provide a touch of encouragement and a sense of specialness that can help them take the next step. Over time, these small, uplifting moments accumulate and contribute to our individuality, shaping who we are.
Can you tell us about your favourite places in Japan and the UK?
My favourite place in Japan is my home. I prefer staying surrounded by my favourite furniture, books, clothes, and music rather than going out.
I have yet to have the chance to visit the UK. However, if I ever do, I'd love to visit the Royal Albert Hall. I've been studying classical music since childhood and am particularly interested in this venue. I'd especially like to attend a concert by the London Symphony Orchestra.
And lastly, how do you wear Yaccomaricard?
My style is simple: a shirt, inner layer, and bottoms, usually in navy or black with some accent colours. One of my favourite Yaccomaricard styles is the pintuck set-up. It's a unique, clean, and beautiful look.
Even with this simple style, Yaccomaricard pintucks make me look and feel sophisticated. The pintucks' delicate lines and unique texture give the clothes a truly special feel that ordinary garments lack.
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