Spring/summer is upon us and the new collection Botanical Magnified has launched. With new styles expect to launch each week throughout the coming months we talk to our Tokyo-based Planning Director Kazumi Umezawa about what is to come.
Umezawa San, what inspired the theme "Botanical Magnified? And how do you define "botanical magnified" in terms of design elements and shapes in the collection?
When we look at everyday plants such as flowers and greenery from a different perspective, angle, or magnified view, they reveal unexpected appearances—delicate flowers may have strikingly intense stamens and pistils, and leaves may display intricate, sprawling veins. These details present a completely different image from what we usually see. This sense of wonder, as if stepping from the ordinary into the extraordinary, and the mysteriously beautiful forms inspired us. We wanted to create a collection that allows people to discover a slightly different version of themselves, moving from their everyday life into something new and unexpected.
We applied our handcrafting techniques to express organic forms and distinctive accents within each piece. The collection showcases vibrancy, dynamism, and a unique individuality.
What new materials or techniques can we find in this new collection?
In terms of material, I want to highlight the Cotton Gauze Crepe fabric we’ve introduced in a useful jacket launching sometime in March. It combines the natural softness of gauze with the texture of crepe. For us, it evokes the gentle warmth of wood and has a pleasant touch.
We experimented with many techniques this season. We launch Spring Summer with the Haishoku collection, a dress, jacket, and trouser crafted from cotton lawn featuring a pinched pintuck technique that achieves a dynamic three-dimensional effect. We’ve gone on to further highlight the linear pattern by using a contrast-coloured accent stitch.
From February we’ll introduce the Saku Waistcoat and Saku Shirt collection. We used alternating wide triangular tucks to create the appearance of budding flowers and to inject a sense of movement.
Also, from February, we’ll launch the Kiri collection, a dress, top, shirt and trouser that combine our garment dyeing technique with a bold botanical appliqued motif, resulting in an organic appearance and a distinctive raw quality.
From March, you’ll see the launch of the Oki Shima dress and shirt. A series inspired by the image of growing leaves. They showcase strategically arranged 3 cm-wide bold tucks that create shadows and dynamism in the fabric.
The Surasshu Top will also launch sometime after March. It features a rich, complex surface texture created by overlaying organic curves of cord embroidery on top of raw-edged quilting made from voile fabric and cotton jersey.
Later in April, we'll introduce the Tsuta jacket and overshirt. Strips of contrasting katsuragi fabric are stitched in a graphic pattern and garment-dyed to create a unique, dynamic accent.
Finally, we have the Nameraka dress and blouse launching after May. Black overlocking is used to finish frilled hemlines adding weight to its delicate lightness, resulting in a new and fresh technique.
How do you use colour to emphasize the collection theme?
We focused on freshness, a touch of edginess, and elegance. Inspired by the natural vibrancy of plants around us, the collection features refreshing Aloe, Lime, Kale and Blue Orchid. These are complemented by shades of Shell and Dahlia Pink as well as earthy browns and Valencia Orange. The colour coordination combines key colours with dark tones to create a subtle sense of contrast and intrigue.
How does this collection fit into the broader vision of Yaccomaricard, and what new direction or evolution does it represent for the brand?
As a fashion brand, we aim to create truly unique pieces that stand out. We continue to pursue the brand's identity by focusing on our core of pintucks, garment dyeing, and natural materials. Each collection embodies this ongoing challenge. We want more people to discover Yaccomaricard, expand the occasions they wear our designs, and embrace the joy of dressing up. Ultimately, we want to express that Yaccomaricard is a brand that celebrates the joy of fashion.
What’s your favourite piece from the collection and why?
The Hankachi Dress (1271449) and Hankachi Trouser (1032247) are both elegant yet bold. These pieces offer many styling options and really highlight the beauty of pintucks.
We attempted to redefine our off-body shirt with the Oki Shima Shirt (1023903) by using an elegant and bold panelling technique. The result was a collection with a slightly sporty nuance.
The Nameraka Blouse (1023896) is a feel-good piece, we’ve balanced a frilled design with linear black overlocking and created a perfect blend of sweetness and edginess.
Are there any cultural or historical influences relating to organic forms that will shape the collection?
We are conscious of the idea of "creating from fabric." Just as traditional kimono design is based on working with flat, linear fabric, our designs also explore the relationship between the body and fabric, allowing space and movement to create natural off-body silhouettes. The overlapping layers of fabric add depth and dimensionality, with pintucks enhancing the shadows and textures.
Additionally, kimonos traditionally use "kasane irome" (layered colours) to express seasonal landscapes and plant motifs. We can honour that by using our signature garment-dyeing process, we bring out delicate nuances that align with our theme and colour story.
How will sustainability and eco-friendliness be incorporated into the concept?
We focus on minimizing waste by limiting the number of fabrics and accessories used, challenging ourselves to create new ideas within these constraints. We are committed to optimizing fabric usage through efficient patternmaking, avoiding synthetic fibres as much as possible, and ensuring strict water purification processes during garment dyeing. These principles have been integral to the Yaccomaricard philosophy since its inception.
